Why Wooden Gates Fail Before the Wood Does

A timber garden gate takes a proper beating. Rain soaks into end grain, hinges work loose as the posts move with the seasons, and the bottom rail sits in the splash zone every time it rains. The good news is that most gates are worth saving. A gate that sags or sticks is usually suffering from one or two fixable problems rather than needing a complete replacement, and a few hours with basic tools will add years to its life.

Set aside a dry afternoon and work through the stages below in order. Fixing the structure first, then the surface, means you won't be painting timber you're about to replace.

Start With a Proper Inspection

Before you touch anything, open and close the gate a few times and watch what it does. Look for where it catches, where it drops, and which corner is dragging. Then get down and examine the timber closely.

• Probe the bottom rail and lower stiles with a screwdriver. If the blade sinks in easily or the wood feels spongy, that section is rotten and needs cutting out.
• Check the hinge side first. Loose hinges are the single most common cause of a sagging gate.
• Look at the hang post as well as the gate. If the post itself is wobbling, no amount of hinge tightening will help.
• Inspect the latch and catch for wear, misalignment or a strike plate that has shifted.

If more than about a third of the gate is soft, or the frame has twisted badly, replacement is the sensible call. Otherwise, carry on.

Tighten the Hinges and Cure the Sag

Support the gate on blocks or have someone hold it while you work, so the weight isn't hanging on the hinges. Tighten every screw on both hinges. If a screw spins freely, the hole has enlarged — fill it with a wooden matchstick or sliver of dowel dipped in exterior wood glue, let it set, then drive the screw back in. Longer screws that reach fresh timber behind the hinge plate work well too.

For a gate that has dropped, the classic remedy is to fit a diagonal brace. Cut a length of timber to run from the bottom of the hinge stile up to the top of the latch stile, and fix it firmly with screws through the frame. This transfers the weight back to the hinge post and stops the gate pulling itself out of shape.

If the hinges themselves are worn — the pin rattling or the knuckle sloppy — replace them. Fit galvanised or stainless steel Tee hinges or ring hinges sized to the gate's weight, and set them into shallow recesses so the gate sits flush against the post.

Replace Rotten Slats and Rails

Cut out decayed timber back to solid wood, using a square to keep your cuts straight. Treat the exposed cut ends with a wood preservative before you fit anything new, because end grain soaks up water faster than any other surface.

• Match the timber to the existing slats in thickness and width. Treated softwood is fine for most garden gates, though oak or larch will last longer.
• Drill pilot holes before screwing, especially near the ends of boards, to avoid splitting.
• Use exterior-grade screws — stainless steel or coated, never plain steel that will rust and stain the timber.
• Leave a small gap between new boards so water can drain and air can move.

Check the gate still fits its opening once the new pieces are in. It's far easier to trim a slat now than to discover the gate no longer latches.

Sand, Fill and Prepare for Paint

Run a random orbital sander or a sanding block over the whole gate, working with the grain. Pay particular attention to rough edges, splintered corners and any areas where the old finish has flaked. Feather the edges of peeling paint so you don't end up with visible ridges under the new coat.

Fill small cracks and screw holes with an exterior wood filler, let it harden, then sand flush. Wipe the whole gate down with a damp cloth to remove dust, and allow it to dry completely. If the timber is bare, apply a wood preservative or primer first — this is the step most people skip, and it's the one that decides how long the paint lasts.

Mask or remove the hinges and latch if you can, or wipe any paint off them immediately while it's still wet.

Fit a New Latch and Check the Swing

With the gate hanging correctly, fit your new latch. Mark the position with the gate closed so the catch lines up naturally, then chisel out a shallow recess if the latch body needs one. Fix the strike plate to the post at the same height, checking with a spirit level that it sits square.

Now test the swing. The gate should open and close with light pressure and clear the ground by around 10–15mm at its lowest point. If it drags, lift it slightly by packing the hinges or adjusting their position rather than shaving the bottom off — you'll keep the gate's strength and stop water splashing up into the end grain.

Finally, brush on two coats of exterior wood paint or stain, allowing proper drying time between coats, and give the hinges a drop of oil. Done properly, a repaired gate will swing sweetly for another decade.